When Does PMI Come Off? Three Ways to Kill It Faster
Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) is the fee you pay the lender for the privilege of putting less than 20% down. It protects them — not you. It typically costs 0.3%–1.5% of the loan amount per year, and on a $400,000 loan that's $1,200–$6,000 a year of money lighting itself on fire.
The good news: PMI is temporary. Federal law, lender rules, and a few smart strategies can end it faster than you'd think.
The three ways PMI ends
- Automatic termination at 78% LTV. By federal law (the Homeowners Protection Act of 1998), your lender must automatically cancel PMI when your loan-to-value ratio reaches 78%, based on the original amortization schedule — as long as you're current on payments.
- Borrower-requested cancellation at 80% LTV. You can request cancellation once you hit 80% LTV, either through normal amortization or by prepayments. You must submit the request in writing, be current on payments, and meet any lender-specific requirements (e.g., good payment history).
- Mid-point of the loan. PMI must be terminated at the midpoint of your amortization schedule regardless of LTV, as long as you're current. For a 30-year loan, that's year 15.
LTV — the only number that matters
Loan-to-Value = Current Loan Balance ÷ Original Home Value (for automatic cancellation) or Current Balance ÷ Current Appraised Value (for borrower-requested cancellation with an appraisal).
At 10% down, you start at 90% LTV. At 5% down, you start at 95% LTV. The faster you shrink that number, the sooner PMI dies.
See when your PMI drops off
Our calculator automatically removes PMI the month you cross 20% equity — open it and watch the effect on your monthly payment.
Open the Calculator →Strategy 1: Pay extra principal
Every extra dollar of principal moves your LTV down. On a $400,000 loan starting at 95% LTV, adding $200/month in extra principal can reach 80% LTV about 3–4 years faster than the standard schedule — eliminating years of PMI payments.
On a 0.75% PMI rate, that's ~$2,500/year × 4 years = $10,000 saved just from killing PMI early, on top of the interest savings from paying down principal.
Strategy 2: Get a new appraisal
If your local market has appreciated — or you've done significant renovations — your current value may be high enough to push LTV under 80% without any extra payments. Call your servicer, ask about their appraisal process. Expect to pay $400–$600 out of pocket for the appraisal. If it works, it can kill PMI years early.
Most lenders require the loan to be seasoned for at least 2 years before they'll accept a market-based appraisal, and some require 5.
Strategy 3: Refinance
If interest rates have dropped and your home has appreciated, a refinance can both lower your rate and eliminate PMI in one shot. This only makes sense if the combined savings beat your closing costs within a reasonable timeframe. See our refinance break-even guide for the math.
FHA loans: a different animal
FHA loans don't have PMI — they have MIP (Mortgage Insurance Premium), and the rules are much worse:
- FHA loans originated after June 2013 require MIP for the life of the loan if your down payment was under 10%.
- If your down payment was 10%+, MIP lasts 11 years.
- There is no automatic cancellation at 78% LTV for these loans.
The only way to kill lifetime FHA MIP is to refinance into a conventional loan once you have 20% equity. Many FHA borrowers do exactly this once they qualify — the rate may go up slightly, but the MIP savings almost always win.
What about VA and USDA loans?
VA loans have no monthly PMI — only a one-time "funding fee" at closing. USDA loans have a monthly guarantee fee that works similarly to PMI but is typically lower and lasts the life of the loan.
Common mistakes
- Assuming your servicer will automatically cancel at 80%. The law only requires them to cancel at 78%. Between 80% and 78%, you have to request it.
- Missing payments. If you're not current, PMI cancellation is paused regardless of LTV.
- Ignoring single-premium PMI. If you paid PMI upfront at closing (single-premium), there's usually nothing to cancel — it was a one-shot deal.
- Forgetting to cancel after refinancing into a conventional loan. Post-refi, you still need to track your LTV and request cancellation.
Sample letter to your servicer
Date: [Date]
To: [Servicer Name], Loan Servicing Department
Re: Loan # [Your Loan Number]
I am writing to formally request cancellation of private mortgage insurance (PMI) on the above loan under the Homeowners Protection Act of 1998.
Based on my current loan balance of $___ and the original home value of $___ , my current loan-to-value ratio is __%, which is at or below 80%.
Please confirm cancellation in writing and apply PMI removal effective the next billing cycle. I am current on all payments and in good standing.
Sincerely,
[Your Name]
Run the math
See exactly when your PMI ends — and how extra payments pull that date forward.
Open the Calculator →FAQ
Can I deduct PMI from my taxes?
The PMI deduction expired at the end of 2021 and has not been renewed as of this writing. Check the latest IRS guidance for your tax year.
How much does PMI cost per month?
Typically 0.3%–1.5% of the loan per year, divided by 12. On a $400,000 loan at 0.6%, that's $200/month.
Should I put 20% down just to avoid PMI?
Not always. In a rising market, waiting to hit 20% can cost more in price appreciation than the PMI itself. Run both scenarios.